Professional Mechanic

Hi everyone,

I tried to upload a new video of Bradley and Evelyn, but Blogspot was giving me some problems. I'll have to try again later.

I had another adventure in car repair today. My last project, you'll recall, was changing the power window motor and regulator on our 2002 Dodge Caravan. Today's project involved our 2002 Mercury Sable. I really wish I had pictures, because I know reading text is boring. I forgot to take pictures though! I still have the old parts; perhaps I'll take pictures of those so you can at least get a feel for what I'm talking about.

Last time I took my car in for a $21 dealership oil change and safety inspection, I was told I needed a new ball joint on the left side. I had the right ball joint changed about a year ago, so I was not surprised to hear the left one was bad now. I had the dealership change it ($201...mostly labor), and then they said that an alignment was necessary (another $100). I told them to go for it (even though alignments are normally only about $60...I didn't want to have to take it somewhere else; I waned it done right then).

So the left ball joint got replaced, but when the mechanic tried to do the alignment, he found out that the inner right tie rod was too lose to get a proper alignment. So they called me up and said I needed a new inner tie rod on the right side: another $180, plus tax on the part. I told them to not do the alignment or the tie rod.

After my friend Ken gave me the confidence to tear my door panel off and replace my window motor and regulator, I thought, "Heck, why not a tie rod too?" So I did a lot of research and talked to mechanics at three different auto parts stores to get a good feel for what I was in for. It's actually a pretty simple procedure. I went ahead and changed both the left and right inner and outer tie rods at the same time, because I knew if the right side went, the left wasn't far behind.

The inner tie rods connect to the steering gear box. Often the inner tie rods are simply called "tie rods" or "inner tie rod ends." Another part, the outer tie rod end, connects to the end of the inner tie rod. It's an l-shaped shoulder joint part that connects into the steering knuckle (the wheel). Here's a great video of an inner tie rod:



My tie rods were both floppy like the one in the video.

Here's a great video on the outer tie rod end:



The inner tie rods cost $26 each, the outers $20 each, and the new rack boot hose clamps $4. So I only spent $96 + tax on the parts. I also had to buy a floor jack and jack stands ($60 total), a grease gun ($12), and blue LocTite ($4), but I'll use those on future projects/oil changes/tire rotations. So for about $100 in parts, I was able to change both sets of inner and outer tie rods, compared to $180 at the dealer for just ONE inner! Do the math. I figure I saved $350-$400 (not including the rip-off alignment), plus I didn't have to have my car stuck at the mechanics, and I learned a ton and had a great time.

The hardest part was getting the rack boot back on. Once I got the hose clamps, however, it was easy.

I went to Murray's Discount Auto Parts and borrowed a special inner tie rod removal tool (for free!). The job would have been nearly impossible without it.

I'll take the car in to Goodyear for a $50 alignment on Monday, and we'll be good to go.